Oils & Salves

Herbal oils: first step

When I talk about plant properties, I am talking about the chemical compounds that plants contain. The chemical compounds can be volatile like essential oils, for example menthol, which is responsible for the mint smell. Chemicals can also be solid like the resin in calendula flowers called calendulin and which confers part of the healing properties of the calendula flowers are other plants from the same family (Asteracea, e.g., daisy, dandelion, yarrow) that also contain resins. 

The purpose of herbal-infused oil is therefore to extract oil soluble chemical compounds from plants to the oil. This oil will then be used for making fatty cosmetics: salves and creams.

Choosing the right oil

Before proceeding, it is important to choose the right oil. Indeed, a poorly chosen oil can turn rancid. First of all, it is important to choose an organic oil from cold pressed for oil with better nutritional quality (even if we do not eat it in this case, our skin benefits from these qualities). Also pesticides have a strong binding affinity with fats and so there are high probablity of having pesticide residues in oils than in other products. 

Oils are categorized into three groups based on their molecular structure:

• Polyunsaturated oils

Have several carbon-carbon C = C double bonds. Double bonds are fragile and unstable and can easily break at high temperatures. When the double bonds break, the oil loses its properties and becomes rancid.

• Monounsaturated oils

Have a single double bond and are therefore more stable and go rancid less quickly.

• Saturated oils

Do not have double bonds. Carbon atoms are linked by single bonds and are saturated with hydrogen atoms. These bonds are stable and less brittle, so saturated oils will go rancid less quickly and can withstand higher temperatures. Example: coconut oil.

• Olive oil

Remains my favorite since it is readily available in cold pressing and organic. It is good value for money and most of all I like the texture of olive oil on skin. It is well absorbed by the skin, and does not leave a greasy finish to the touch. In addition, once macerated with herbs, the oil takes the beautiful color and a good smell of herbs and thus lose its characteristic smell of olive oil.

• Coconut oil

Is a good choice as it has the most saturated fatty acids and therefore will be the most stable. However, the fact that it is solid at room temperature is not practical for the manufacture of oily macerates. It will be necessary to infuse the plants in the oil over low heat as for an infusion.

• Sweet almond and hazelnut oils

Are also good choices, since they are rich in monounsaturated fatty acids and are richer in vitamin E, an effective preservative that prevents oils from going rancid.

→ Choose my oils based on these factors because based on experience other oils really turn bad quickly and I know olive, rapseed, sweet almond are easily found and affordable options.

→ Ability to penetrate deep into the skin also could be a factor of choice. Jojoba, avocado, argan oils are good options in this case.

Choosing the right herbs

You can make herbal-infused oil with all herbs. However, not all herbs are worth to use in cosmetics.

The best herbs to use belong to the Asteraceae family (Asteraceae) such as marigold, chamomile, daisy, dandelion, and arnica. Indeed these herbs contain resins and latex which form a protective barrier following wounds, and help in healing. These molecules also act antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory.

Below is a list of interesting plants for the skin:

• Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) → wounds, inflammation, sensitive red skins
• Daisy (Bellis perennis) → muscle pain, hematoma (similar usages than arnica)
• St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum) → inflammation, sunburn
• Chamomile → Soothing, calm irritation, sun burn, sensitive skins
• Comfrey leaves and roots (Symphytum officinalis) → hematoma, inflammation, joint pain
• Dandelion flowers (Taraxacum sp.) → sensitive red skins, muscle pain
• Elder flowers (Sambucus nigra) → aged skins, and super cool scent (I love that one!)
• Plantain (Plantago sp.) → insect bites
• Burdock roots (Arctium lappa) → acne
• Horse chesnuts (Aesculus hippocastanum) → Heavy legs
• Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)→ Rosemary is one of the best natural antioxidants we know. It protects our cells against premature aging. It leaves a oudour and great mix with roses.
• Lavander (Lavandula angustifolia) is good but any skin problem, eczema, or inflammation, wound healing, burns of all kinds, such as sunburn. Excellent mixture with St. John's wort. and calming the nervous system when I smell like it make me relax.
• Rose & Rosehips (Rosa sp.) → sensitive skins, aging skin.
• Calendula (Calendula arvensis or C. officinalis) → sensitive red skins, dry skins, excema, skin inflammations

Before starting

It is imperative to dry herbs before. Fresh plants contain water which does not mix with the oil causing a risk of rotting.

Some exception, like herbal-infused oil of St. John's Wort must be made with semi-dried plants left in the air for a day (that’s why semi-dried). Calendula, dandelion, sage, rosmarin can be used fresh as their water content is low and for better quality oils. 

Making Herbal Infused Oils

1. Place the dried plants in a S-shaped food processor (or blender). Cover with oil and blend.
2. Place everything in a glass jar, and cover with extra oil if needed.
3. Let it steep for three weeks.
4. Strain the mixture to collect the infused-oil oil.
5. Place the oil in a cleaned glass jar, labeled and dated.

→ Cutting the plants in smaller pieces in the food processor, break down cells which release chemical compounds and increase the surface of contact between plants and the oil which allows a better extraction. 

Salves

Salves are fatty products that will protect the skin and nourish it on the surface.

1. 30 ml herbal-infused oil
2. 4 g beeswax
3. Melt the beeswax in a double boiler.
4. Add the oil once the beeswax has melted, mix well to obtain a liquid mix.
5. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture cool for a few minutes at room temperature.
6. Put the liquid in clean tins, and let cool. Close, label and date

Shelf life: Store at room temperature for up to 1 year.

→ Here there is no need to add preservatives or essential oils, neither for preservation nor for perfume. Keep the natural scent from the herbal oil. If you want to add preserves (as vitamin E) or essential oil add in after you remove the pot from the heat. Remember essential oils are precious products which should not be abused.

A salve with more beeswax will be less soft but will hold higher temperatures without melting. For example, in summer it can be useful to have a harder salve if the salve is placed in a backpack for a day outside.

Choosing beeswax

Preferably buy your beeswax from a local and organic producer. Beeswax is a fatty product, and most toxins/pesticides are fat soluble, meaning they have a particular affinity with fatty substances. If the hive is located in a polluted place, then polluting particles or pesticides will be strongly present in the beeswax. I always buy my beeswax from local producers via Reko.